TY - JOUR
T1 - Quality attributes of partially hydrolyzed collagen in a liquid formulation used for skin care
AU - Mejía-Calvo, Ignacio
AU - López-Juárez, Leonardo E.
AU - Vázquez-Leyva, Said
AU - López-Morales, Carlos A.
AU - Montoya-Escutia, Daniel
AU - Merlos Rivera, Pamela G.
AU - Herbert-Pucheta, José Enrique
AU - Zepeda-Vallejo, Luis Gerardo
AU - Velasco-Velázquez, Marco
AU - Pavón, Lenin
AU - Pérez-Tapia, Sonia M.
AU - Medina-Rivero, Emilio
N1 - Publisher Copyright:
© 2020 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology Published by Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
PY - 2021/1
Y1 - 2021/1
N2 - Background: The deterioration of the skin accentuates over time, affecting its aesthetic appearance. This is characterized by the weakening of the mechanisms involved in the regeneration and repair of the dermal matrix. Consequently, the skin losses elasticity and smoothness resulting in the formation of wrinkles. The alternatives for facial rejuvenation include surgery, injection of botulinum toxin, and the application of masks. Topic products are less invasive, can be self-applied, and have an increased benefit/risk relationship. Aim: We developed a liquid formulation containing collagen hydrolyzed and evaluated the product by cutting-edge technology in order to define proper its quality attributes. Methods: We employed nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), size-exclusion chromatography (SEC), and mass spectrometry (MS). Additionally, we analyzed its cosmetical effect in five volunteers and we demonstrate the product safety. Results: Our results demonstrate the following: (a) a stable secondary structure identity associated to the known triple helix arrangement in liquid and solid states; (b) a typical conformational flexibility depending on its hydration state; (c) thermal stability confirmed by liquid- and solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance schemes; and (d) a molecular mass distribution of peptides between 0.5 and 19.5 kDa. The product faded wrinkles in the forehead, an effect that remained after removing the mask. The formula was non-irritating and hypoallergenic. Conclusion: We characterized, using state-of-the-art methodologies, the quality attributes that are critical for the safety and beneficial effect of a new collagen-containing formula.
AB - Background: The deterioration of the skin accentuates over time, affecting its aesthetic appearance. This is characterized by the weakening of the mechanisms involved in the regeneration and repair of the dermal matrix. Consequently, the skin losses elasticity and smoothness resulting in the formation of wrinkles. The alternatives for facial rejuvenation include surgery, injection of botulinum toxin, and the application of masks. Topic products are less invasive, can be self-applied, and have an increased benefit/risk relationship. Aim: We developed a liquid formulation containing collagen hydrolyzed and evaluated the product by cutting-edge technology in order to define proper its quality attributes. Methods: We employed nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), size-exclusion chromatography (SEC), and mass spectrometry (MS). Additionally, we analyzed its cosmetical effect in five volunteers and we demonstrate the product safety. Results: Our results demonstrate the following: (a) a stable secondary structure identity associated to the known triple helix arrangement in liquid and solid states; (b) a typical conformational flexibility depending on its hydration state; (c) thermal stability confirmed by liquid- and solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance schemes; and (d) a molecular mass distribution of peptides between 0.5 and 19.5 kDa. The product faded wrinkles in the forehead, an effect that remained after removing the mask. The formula was non-irritating and hypoallergenic. Conclusion: We characterized, using state-of-the-art methodologies, the quality attributes that are critical for the safety and beneficial effect of a new collagen-containing formula.
KW - hydrolyzed collagen
KW - liquid formulation
KW - quality attributes cosmetic
KW - safety cosmetic product
KW - skin aging
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85084512319&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1111/jocd.13439
DO - 10.1111/jocd.13439
M3 - Artículo
C2 - 32390321
SN - 1473-2130
VL - 20
SP - 150
EP - 158
JO - Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
JF - Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
IS - 1
ER -